CPHFW seen from the sidelines

The trip to Copenhagen was a spontaneous decision. Two days after the family trip to Spain was over, I got on the plane. I had actually decided that I wasn't going to head down there this summer, but then several invitations came that I simply couldn't resist.

The first day started with an event where I got to meet several of the other talents at Avtajeva, a really great group that pretty much stuck together for the rest of the week. Then we hopped on bikes (and I gained full understanding for why locals get frustrated with tourists messing up rush hour traffic) and set course for the first show under CPHFW:OpéraSPORT.

I had FOMO to say the least after last year's fashion week, and was therefore extra excited to see what Awa and Stephanie had created this season. "Growth" was a worthy opening to the week, presented in brilliant sunshine in the beautiful Carl Jacobsen's Garden. The show was one I had looked forward to the most, but the most remarkable thing was still that Awa Malina had given birth to her son just the day before.

The collection consisted of light color tones, transparent layers, lace and playful elements, from sporty touches like New Balance shoes and technical fabric choices to the feminine details the duo is so good at.

Next stop wasStem, which offered a completely different energy. In an industrial warehouse a team sat in a row sewing together damaged T-shirts that guests had brought along (forgot to bring mine), while the models walked around them. All the garments in the collection were created from existing remnant materials, which made the repair a natural part of the presentation.

The day ended at "Newtalent"Taus, a personal favorite, which also stood out. In the presentation format, the models posed dramatically in front of glitter-filled snail shells. Despite the artistic surroundings, it was the garments that truly captured attention. The first look immediately gave me associations to Dilara Findikoglu, a compliment of the highest order. The styling by Louise Borchers was also very well executed, with stockings twisted and cut around the shoes and Pandora jewelry out of the ordinary.

As main sponsor, Pandora was also well represented in the collection. The "Juho" bag was covered in a mix of jewelry and rings, while one of the models wore an oversized trenchcoat, buttoned to the TOP (iykyk), with earrings sewn directly into the collar as a kind of jewelry application.

My favorite look, however, was something that stood in stark contrast to last year's "summery" presentation. A sculptural top with a print reminiscent of old wallpaper, decorative buttons and matching capri pants in the same color.

Day two started at Refshaleøen, where bothThe Royal Danish AcademyandSAFD(Scandinavian Academy of Fashion Design) presented their student collections in raw industrial surroundings. I love going to the student shows. There's something extra fun about seeing what young designers do when they still have the freedom to experiment, without having to consider the commercial aspect as much.

After both a boat ride and an Uber, we just made it toMKDT Studioas the first look came out into the garden. The models came in a clear color sequence, first those dressed in white, then beige and gray, before it all ended in black. Just like at OpéraSPORT, flowers also appeared on the models, but here in a far less dramatic version.

Paolina Russoended the day with a show that was fun, but also chaotic to say the least. The day before, they had changed the tickets from invite-only to opening the show to the public, and you could tell. After the team had finally managed to create enough space outside the venue, the models came out in colorful and fun looks - several on skateboards. Among the models was also Ella Emhoff, Kamala Harris's stepdaughter, while the huge statement jewelry from Tétier was perhaps what stood out the most.

AtHenrik Vibskovthe fashion show was interwoven with an artistic performance, with something as everyday as lotion as the starting point. Patterns and prints were mixed every which way, silk scarves were styled in playful ways and many models had "non-glasses" balanced right at the tip of their nose.

The last day started withI.AM.ISIGO(previous winner of the Zalando Visionary Award) and a presentation quite different from the rest of the week. The models moved through an installation wearing sculptural garments and lots of textures, among other things made from banana fibers.

Solitude Studiostook us to Helligåndskirken (The Church of the Holy Spirit). One of the few times you'll get me to show up at church is apparently for a fashion show. Shoulders and knees, however? On display. With a beautiful soundtrack, natural sunlight and chalk-covered floors, one of my favorite models, Irina Frankild, opened the show in a sculptural dress. Then the models came out in platform shoes, intricate lace, experimental silhouettes, mini-shorts, unique pockets and contrasting edges against transparent materials. It was so Ghesquière-coded, in the best possible way. Without a doubt one of the strongest shows during CPHFW.

After the show I ran over to Maria Torquato, who also walked the show. We got to know each other during CPHFW last year, and she's always one of the people I look forward to seeing on the streets each season.

Last stop wasCollina Strada, perhaps the show I had been looking forward to the most. The New York-based brand was this year's international guest and actually the reason I ended up extending the trip by two days, after they offered to dress me for the show.

The Opera Park was the perfect location for Collina Strada and "Delirium in Bloom," sponsored by The Climate Pledge. All the looks were made from remnants of the studio's previous collections, and the soft pastel tones were combined with everything from various textures and layers upon layers to fascinating and unexpected ways of working with the fabrics. When the wind caught the tinsel strands in the models' hair, it almost looked like they had just come up from the sea with seaweed in their hair.

The socks had gotten a little upgrade and were swapped out for open-toe socks, where my favorite was a pair made of sequins. Two dogs also got their own turn on the catwalk, while the transparent "naked dress" felt very fitting for the moment, at a time when more and more designers are moving toward thin and transparent materials.

And with that, I was very glad I decided to stay the two extra days.